Soulmanのウラナミ『Pot Luck part 2 – only a surfer knows the feeling』


Soulman:"Tell me and I forget. Teach me and I remember. Involve me and I learn." --Benjamin Franklin


Howzit Howzit, 元気?





“rent a reck”という会社から、定員が無制限のバンを借りた。施錠ができないけど、安いし、これがベストだった。たぶん盗むものはないと思われて、誰も車をあさることはなかったよ。



それじゃ、街を飛び出して波をキャッチしに行こう。サーフショップ、マリンスポーツショップのサポートも忘れずにね。A Hui Hou…Malama Pono…(ハワイ語で「また会う日まで、お元気で」)

Howzit Howzit, pot luck is what we call “a get together” where everyone brings a some kind of dish then everyone shares and has a good time. The last time I was in Hawaii as I mentioned in my last article, we all got together and it was the first time in a long time. And since it was the Holiday season…in this case it was just before Thanksgiving, everyone was in a festive mood or wanted to celebrate. Anyway…all of my childhood friends who I started surfing with and our older senpai or teachers were there. All still looked the same but all noticeably aged. Even though we haven’t seen each other for a long time…It was just as if we never been apart. We all have grown and have for the most part totally different lives…a Dentist, a photographer, art director, retail executive, entrepreneur , executive chef, systems engineer, designer. What we all have in common is that we surf and love the ocean…so when we get together it doesn’t matter what we do but what we love to do. This I think is where the term, “only a surfer knows the feeling” comes from. Anyway…as we started to drink and have more fun…we started talking about the surf trips we took and surfing. Our first surf trip we all packed into a small motel room for 2 people, all 8 of us…It was $21 a night…back then there was no limit to the number of occupants, rented a van from a company called: “rent a reck”…cheap but no locks…was the best…no one wanted to break in cause probably nothing to steal. Then I realized that this one of the really good things about being a surfer…that only a surfer knows the feeling. I get reminded about this when talking with other surfers and more than ever realize about how good surfing feels and how much it is a part of me. No matter where you go in the world…Regardless of the language you speak or your profession, If you talk to a surfer you will definitely be able to make a good conversation…just on surfing…because only a surfer knows the feeling.
So…more than ever…get out of the city and go catch a wave. And most of all don’t forget to support your local surf/ocean shop.
A Hui Hou…Malama Pono…